Story
Off to Plymouth with Panniers
Hi
Thanks for visiting my page once again I’m raising money for Building Blocks which adds value to the services provided to children and babies by East and North Hertfordshire NHS Trust.
I’ve enjoyed taking part in organised rides for the past two years so this year I thought I’d try something a bit different. My morris team, Letchworth Morris Men (http://letchworthmorris.org.uk) have been invited by Plymouth MM to join them and other teams, from as far as Jersey and Wales, for a weekend’s dancing in the Tamar Valley. I’ve decided to ride there from Letchworth to meet them, self supported, using a Sustrans (http://www.sustrans.org.uk) route and stopping at B&Bs along the way.
Thursday 10th September – Day one
Wow what a day; it's 21:15 and I'm showered changed and sat down in a pub with a pint of Fuller's Discovery, waiting for a well earned steak and Guiness pie! The weather's been glorious but the bike and a nightmare and the route challenging.
I set off from Letchworth at 08:30 a bit later than planned (a second mug of tea seemed like a good idea) but with time in hand so no problem. I got as far as the A505 less than ten minutes from the house and tried to get across the busy road quickly starting to move and changing into a high gear and rising on the pedals for rapid acceleration. The chain snapped and fell off in the middle of the road argh! I have a chain tool with me so after having retrieved the chain from the traffic I managed to bodge it together after about 20 minutes and set off again.
The route to Hatfield was uneventful (I've ridden it before) and I was making good time in the fair weather. I needed to change routes here though and totally missed the change and got as far as Welham before turning round and going back to the town centre where a cycling student gave me excellent direction to find the 'Alban Way' track. By now the chain was making a disturbing noise and halfway to St Albans another sound joined in and I discovered that one of my saddle rails had snapped double argh!
Pie's gone and have a pint of ESB now mmm...
Got to St Albans OK even if the ride was a little odd. Found the right track out of town after poking around for a while then lost it, doubled back and then lost it again. Gave up with tracks and took the main road into Watford making up some time on decent tarmac. A helpful cyclist in the town centre guided me to a decent cycle shop where I bought a saddle and fitted it. Much better ride even if the chain was a bit noisy still. Failing to get directions back to the track from the shop I found the Wetherspoon's in the high street and used their free (well I had a pint natch) WiFi to locate find the next leg towards Rickmandsworth.
A few miles out of Watford the chain fell apart again, imanaged to cobble it together once more and just as I was putting it back on the sprockets remembered that I had some spare links in my kit. It lasted another couple of miles or so at which point I replaced the problem link with my spare and it's been sound since (touch wood).
Spent a good few miles really enjoying riding along the Grand Union Canal tow path. I came right up to a heron standing on the bank waiting for it's tea. I've never been so close to one and was seriously impressed by it's size. It was magnificent to see it fly off skiming along the canal before me.
Shortly after this I needed to take stock of my route again and stopped at a canal side pub called the 'Coy Carp' (ha ha – appeals to my sense of humour anyhow) and had a nice pint of Adnams and recharged my netbook while checking my position. Followed the route along the canal some more and then headed under the M25 and got to Iver Village where I'd lost the route once more. A friendly American cyclist put me back on track again but I soon lost it again and resorted to the main roads as it was getting dark. At least people can direct you and there are lots of signs.
Eventually got to Windsor at about eight having done 70.3 miles (if not in a straight line).
Friday 11th September – Day Two
Another glorious day weather wise and with less hassles than yesterday although not without its moments. I got off to a good start with a fine English breakfast cooked by Dee and Steve my hosts and rode of into Windsor town centre at nine. Topped up the phone and bought a nail brush in Boots (my nails are black after all that playing with the chain!). Then had a look at the castle, not having seen it before I was impressed by the size of it. The town is quite pretty and has a vast flotilla of swans on the Thames.
Snapping out of tourist mode I set of along the side of the Thames at least until I get to Eton Bray and take an impromptu ride around the international rowing pond. I meet a local cyclist who guides me back onto the track and tells me of his 3.5 km ride from Laos through Cambodia and Thailand to Malaysia, which is interesting as I'm going to Thailand in January.
Back along the river the route is now more of a footpath. I pass a jogger and hit a series of dips and ridges over which I manage control the bike until I find the fourth dip contains a tree stump which spills onto the deck. Not to bad though apart from a couple of scratches and a slight bang to my head (glad I always wear my helmet!) . The bike's OK so I set off towards Maidenhead again.
I manage to take another detour being confused where the signs for routes 4 and 61 see to become interchangeable. I get to Maidenhead having done20 miles instead of 7.5; it was pleasant riding but I've got to cut out the detours or I'll never get there! I decide to stop for a coffee and check my location on my netbook. By the time I've finished my espresso I find a flat in my rear tire. I change the tube and find a pin stuck right into it. By the time I've done this it's 12:00 so I stop for a baguette on the way to the station where I will pick up the track again only to find that the tyre has lost pressure again. I'm sure I checked the tube before I set out but heigh ho. Patch the first tube and swap it back in and set out for Reading.
The next section takes me away from the Thames across its flood plain and up over a ridge. It's a long hard climb but the mature beechwood helps keep me cool. The descent is on a nice straight piece of tarmac which allows me to give it full reign. The bike really goes down hill with the weight on and I hit 32 mph. I spot a large bird of prey (buzzard I think) stooping into a field, it doesn't rise so I guess it's caught something.
I now pick up the Kennet and Avon canal which I will follow for the rest of the day. Getting to Reading I stop to find a cycle shop and buy an new inner tube. A friendly local CTC member guides me back to the canal from the town centre.
I'm making good time on the decent tow path and thinking that I should be able to make up some time when I meet Liam and his three mates. They are on the phone to the ambulance service as Liam has damaged his elbow which is twisted into an odd shape and he is white and in obvious pain. They pass me their phone as the ambulance controller wants to speak to an adult and I agree to wait with him until the paramedics arrive. The four of them had been riding their two bikes, the 'passengers' on the handle bars, and collided tipping them all to the ground. Made me feel fortunate and that I'd got away lightly earlier in the day. The crew turned up after about 20 minutes and I set off again.
Got to Newbury at about 19:40 without further incidents having done 51.76 miles in six and a quarter hours the total's now at 122.1 miles.
Saturday 12th September – Day Three
I hope all this doesn't sound like to much whinging 'cos I'm having a brilliant if challenging time; here's some more anyhow.
It's 13:20 and I'm sat in the shop at Crofton Pumping Station with a pot of tea and a fat rascal cake mmm. I've taken a tour of the place and the restored 200 year old beam engines are truly epic.
The day started with another fine breakfast from the Guywood B&B and more sunshine. I hit the road at 09:2o and was soon back on the Kennet and Avon. I spotted some tasty looking trout but guess I don't have time for fishing so I follow the tow path for five and a half miles until the route turn to country lanes. It's good to be on tarmac even my arms were feeling sore from gripping the bars on uneven surfaces. Riding through picture postcard villages and sleepy market towns. Making much better time now and decided I had to have a look at the pumping station as I have to ride past it..
After 40 a minute break I set off again and found I'd gone in a circle and returned to Great Bedwyn. Went back to the canal and found the route again only to find myself coming back into Hungerford (could be another massacre!). Found the station and am going to get a train to Pewsey but in the railway tavern at the moment having a London Pride to sooth my nerves ;-)>
So much for that idea; the train stops at Great Bedwyn and you have to take a bus to Marlborough to get to Pewsey. Having a chat to a local cyclist on the train and eventually connecting to 3 to check the maps I try to find the route again and determine a back up. I find some route markers and spot the one that lead me astray, so make the right turning at this point but soon loose the markers again so engage the back up plan hitting an A road for about five miles and then taking a B road to Pewsey.
Stopped for a pint of Stonehenge 'Pigswill' at Pewsey and got directions along a B road that would take me to Devizes. The ride into the sunset was brilliant passing a ridge to the north (hoping the road didn't go far to the right!) with a round mound and a white horse. I took some photos with my phone so you may be able to see this.
Rolled into Devizes at about 19:30 and called, The Gables, to let them know I was in town and am now in The White Bear having just had a splendid plate of local faggots with onion gravy three veg and mash; that feels so much better especially washed down with the local Wadworth ales. Just need to remember the directions to The Gables now!
The bikes been great the chain is quiet now, no doubt due to the grit it gained from it's trips to the floor, helping it bed into the worn sprockets.
The ride from The White Bear Takes me past the Wadworth brewery and visitor centre; in the future I really must allow more time to take in such facilities. Arrived here just before nine having done 51.72 miles in 5 hours 50 rolling time total distance now ridden is 173.8 miles.
Once I've sent this off I'm going to some detailed route planning for tomorrow and take some screen shots so I don't have to rely on a signal from 3 which caused me some problems today.
Sunday 13th September - Day Four
Perfect day! Rolled into Glastonbury at 17:00 even after an extra ride around the tor. Immediately found The Rifleman where I'm sitting typing this. There's some guys playing wicked blues and I've just had a ham and cheese sandwich and a packet of nuts (not hoping to find much else on Sunday evening, (could do with that roast now cf) which is being washed down with Skinner's 'Cornish Knocker' - lovely.
I started today having the best breakfast yet (got a menu to choose from last night) a bit earlier and was back on the road at 08:40 and the tow path soon after. Back on the canal the tow path is well mettled here and down hill it goes past the longest set of locks I've seen. I wonder what kind of scene it would have made when the canal was busy with trade. I make really good time and get to Bradford-on-Avon in about an hour.
I thought about taking a train for a bit, as I've got a twinge in my right lower leg, but the only connection is to Bath, which doesn't cut the distance much and I soon discover that there's a bus replacement service anyhow. Well I'll just have to take it easy and use some ibuprofen then. So it's back to the canal as far as far as Freshford where I change from route 4 to route 24 which follows a disused railway and then country lanes to Radstock. It's just gone twelve so I try to find a pub that'll do me a sandwich and a pint but they are all offering Sunday roasts. I can't handle a heavy me so I settle for a packet of nuts and a pint topped up with a snack bar from my pack.
From Radstock I leave the Sustrans routes and hit some B roads to Wells. It's a long grind uphill for some time, managing to dodge a couple of combines (although their pace is similar I pull over and let them pass on account of the noise), until the point where I hit the massive drop down to Wells. Shortly after the descent begins I spot the view with Glastonbury Tor in the distance so I stop to take a picture but am not sure how good it will look using my phone. I get back on the bike and hit a massive (for this machine anyhow)35.7 mph and am a bit miffed that there are no speed cameras to trip despite many warnings.
Having got to Wells in good time I had a better look around than my previous visit which was the Chalice MM ring meeting last year when it rained stair rods as soon as we'd finished dancing. The cathedral is utterly splendid and the town centre has some interesting shops e.g. a specialist in antique scientific instruments. The Kings Head proved to be a splendid ale house serving locally brewed beverages and I indulged myself in a couple of pints of Moors 'Merlin' whilst checking my route and recharging my netbook (I must have left on standby as it was warm and flat [not like the beer] when I got it out.
Much refreshed I set off back towards the cathedral where I had seen the last route marker point but lost track in front of the entrance. I popped into the tourist information shop outside the grounds and was put back on route (the sign I'd missed was on a bollard). They also had a route map for 'The West Country Way' which covers a large part of my trip so I bought a copy which has been somewhat useful so far and I expect to be more so tomorrow. My plan to capture the route from the Sustrans website didn't go to well so I ended up make a list of places which helped but the map should see me better.
Had a beautiful ride from Wells to Glastonbury eventually getting to the Dragonfly B&B at about 21:00. I've covered 49.43 miles in five hours twenty minutes riding without going off route much at all, the odometer is now reading 223.2 miles.
Monday 14th September – Day Five
A late start today as breakfast is served at nine. As The Dragonfly B&B is a vegetarian house there's no meat (and no sign of the advertised eggs but I want to get going ASAP so don't enquire). I have a good bowl of muesli, a nice bowl of fresh fruit and yoghurt and a slice of toast and hit the road.
The weather is cooler and cloudy with a light breeze but no sign of rain so perfect riding conditions.
I miss picking up route 3, as I've not sorted out the scale of the map yet, and spend some time riding on the A39 (yuk!) but after about five miles manage to get back to country lanes and pretty villages. Now I've got the scale sorted the maps great and I get to Bridgwater at about 12:00 without any further problems.
I'm starving by now and find a Wetherspoons in town. It's been built in a wonderfully fronted building (my photo doesn't do it justice) called Marycourt and was apparently used by 'hanging' judge Jefferies to try the miscreants of the Monmouth rebellion. I have a much more pleasant experience in the form of a Gourmet Burger (severed with chips, onion rings, bacon, blue cheese and relish) and a pint of Cotliegh Tawny which serves to put right the deficiencies of breakfast.
As the day's getting on and my leg is still niggling a bit I check out the station and am delighted to find that I can get to Tiverton Parkway which will leave me about 8 miles to ride. So I buy a ticket and then have to get my bike over the bridge taking the bags off, carrying them and then going back for the bike. I have to change at Taunton and whilst waiting for the train I take the opportunity to weigh the my bike on the platform scales which it tips at 96 lb! The train is an HST to Plymouth so I must put my bike in the guard van which is at the other end of the platform so I have to leg it for the length of the train.
I get off at Tiverton Parkway in the sunshine and have a pleasant run into Tiverton through country lanes and some bits of canal and only manage one small detour. I get to Angel's Guest House at about 18:00 and as soon as I've showered and change set about finding somewhere to stay tomorrow as it's the only night not booked. I decide to stop at Barnstaple rather than Ilfracombe which will shave a bit of distance off the next two days. After a bit of frustration I find a place with a single room that I book on line.
Despite the train ride I have covered 38.86 miles today and the odometer is now at 261.6 miles.
Tuesday 15th September – Day Six
Although I have a large and sustaining breakfast early today I don't get going until about 09:30 as I spend some time writing up yesterdays musings while I wait for some Lycra that I washed last night to dry out a bit more as the radiators have kicked in this morning. The sky is overcast and it's a bit chillier and more breezy this morning. I set off in good spirits as my leg is feeling better for the short day. I know that today is going to be the hardest of the trip as I'll be riding along the south edge of Exmoor.
Soon after leaving Tiverton I'm riding through classic country park landscape and come upon the neo-gothic Knightshayes Court where stop to take a picture. Then it's up a steep hill through a wood and down into farm land. Hills are becoming more of a feature now and I can feel Exmoor brooding in the distance. Coming into Bampton I am enchanted by the gurgling and babbling of the bright clear water of the river Batherm. Another 7.5 miles sees me at Dulverton on the edge of the moor. It's just gone 12:00 so I investigate the farm shop and come out with a slice of home made pork pie with mango and ginger chutney, an organic pear and a block of bread pudding. The cloud has broken and it's quiet sunny so I find a park bench near the bridge over the Exe and have an excellent lunch even if the ducks plague me with beseeching looks and the odd quack.
I set off again and around the corner is the first of the two 'very step hills' described on the map. They are *not* kidding! I rapidly discovered that it was easier to get off and push the 6.5 stone machine (I end up doing this about half a dozen times today) and get to the top with a couple of rests. The first section of the moor is wood lined and I can hear the wind rushing trough the trees. Then I get out onto the moor proper and although the sun is still shining through broken cloud the wind is howling and tuging at the bike as I ride along.
Halfway across Exmoor I stop at The Sportsman to use the facilities (and of course it would be rude not to have a pint of Exmoor Ale) where I meet a group of 10 cyclists from Ross-on-Wye who riding the Sustrans route. They'd got the train to Plymouth and were riding back in the opposite direction to me. We had a good chat about the route, places to stay and cycling things. Back on the road I there's another 10 miles of the moor with spectacular views of Devon. Then the descent back down to farm land. The main drop is fairly straight and not quite as steep so I have a brilliant run down hitting 40 mph on the way.
I arrive in Barnstaple at about six bone tired but happy. I've covered 53.4 miles in 6 hours 23 minutes riding and have now gone over 300 miles with the odometer at 315.
I find a pub doing quality real ale and food 5 minutes walk from the Yeo Dale Hotel where I'm staying. There's a bunch of sparkies from London (working on a new Argos store) in the pub and they persuade me to try the landlord's chilli sauce. I like a good hot sauce so I give it a go and sample a tiny dab from the end of my finger and it causes intense fire in my mouth. I've never had anything so hot and when I check the ingredients it does not contain any chillies but 'pepper extract' no wonder. I have a home made steak and kidney pudding with a selection of five vegetables and a pile of chips. This is accompanied by a few pints of St Austell's superb HSD and I retire to bed happy and replete.
Wednesday September 16th – Day Seven
The Yeo Dale provide a superb breakfast I get a starter of a pancake with a mandarin segment and marmalade sauce. The full english comes with two rashers of the best hand smoked bacon, a farm house sausage and a slice of black pudding. After typing up yesterdays entry I set off at 09:30 and am soon on the 'Tarka Trail', this is a tarmaced run of disused railway line that runs along the estuary. It's flat straight and runs downhill for miles. I make it to Great Torrington at just gone 11:00. The only incident so far has been dropping the bike and skining my knee while trying to ride through a crush (note to self - walk next time!). This gives the chance to use my field dressings pack (ziplock bag with some plasters and antiseptic wipes) that I've been hauling around.
I stop at Torrington for a cup of tea and then the track goes on through woods and a couple of tunnels. The gradient reverses direction for a while before the 'line' runs out and then it's back to the rolling country lanes. I get to Sheepwash and stop for lunch at the Half Moon Inn where I have venison and wild boar sausages with red wine gravy peas and mash. This is accompanied by a couple of pints of Dartmoor Best Bitter. From here it's a short run to Hatherleigh and I arrive at the Tally Ho! at about 15:00.
Today's seen some of the easiest riding but I've pushed hard and am glad to be able to sort some domestics (wash out some kit for tomorrow's ride and make some phone calls etc.) and have a rest before my last full days riding, tackling the edge of Dartmoor, tomorrow.
I've done 36 miles today in 3 hours 33 minutes and the odometer is now at 351.1 miles. A week seems to have flown past.
Thursday September 17th – Day Eight
As today's breakfast is not until 08:30 I spend some time planning the route using the on-line Sustrans map as the one I have been using has gone off in another direction. When breakfast arrives, for those of you who read Prachett is something that Albert may have served, looking slightly singed with two full rounds of fried bread but tasting absolutely brilliant.
The weather's fine again and the wind is a little lighter. I hit the road at 09:30 again and set off in the wrong direction again argh! I end up doing 8.5 miles before getting to where I started. I decide to take the main road to Okehampton figuring as it will be shorter and have less steep hills (they have some killers around here ). At least I have the satisfaction of riding part of the route the tour of Britain will be using tomorrow and there are men putting out traffic cones and direction signs for the event.
By the time I get to Okehampton I'm feeling a bit down and wondering if I can get another train but I call into the tourist information centre and I'm assured that the next section is level following an old rail line. I buy a Dartmoor cyclist map which is ideal, stop for a double espresso and set in off better spirits.
I make the climb out of town to the Okehampton station visitor centre where the 'Granite Way' starts but unfortunately feel I don't have time to look around. The route is now level as promised, the sun is shining, and I start to make good time. There are spectacular views of Dartmoor to my left and across the rolling (up and down!) hills of Devon to my right. I meet an older lady cyclist and we have a natter and she is very helpful showing me a short-cut that saves a long loop.
Shortly after leaving the granite way I get to Lydford and stop for a pint of St Austell 'Just the Job' and a packet of Quavers which is really great hoppy pint and have a natter with a couple of cyclists there. Then it's of through the hilly lanes past Brent Tor to Tavistock. I stop for another beer in the town in order to check my route. The walls of the toilet in the pub are decorated with bright murals of pub life and I chat to a guy who has been cycle touring in New Zealand and plans to return there and build log cabins. There are two routes out of Tavistock and looking my new map choose the shortest.
After some questioning and dithering I get onto the 'Drakes Trail' and climb out of town and after some tortuous lanes it takes me through some fairly rough woodland paths and then down to a wooden bridge over a small rushing river. The other side of the bridge it dawns on me that when I was looking at my route this morning that one of the branches said 'suitable for mountain bikes only' and I have to haul the bike up steep rocky path out of a gorge. I get to the top and find some ridable track and get to Yelverton where I stop at a shop for an NRG drink feeling the need! I follow a reasonable path for a while and come out on the top of the world with a massive view of Dartmoor to the east. I then find another horrid rocky track down this time. At the bottom the track levels so I get going again but is very roughly mettled and the vibration causes the chain to jump off the rear sprocket. I sort this out fairly rapidly having had some practice and get on my way to find the track improving and seeing a sigh for Plymouth. I'm soon rolling on decent tarmac, at a good speed following a disused railway line into Plymouth which is lifting. Route 27 takes me to within a few miles of Turnchapel my destination for today.
I get to the Clovelly Bay Inn at about 20:00. The welcome at this family run Good Beer Guide recommended pub is fantastic and I down a pint, get a bath and have a splendid platter of slow roasted pork shoulder with four vegetables and roast potatoes. I try a couple more of the ales on offer and finish off with a malt whisky before retiring to bed contented that I've almost completed my trip. I've done 55.64 miles in 6:57 and am now fairly blissed about things.
Friday 18th September - Day Nine
I have a lie in and take breakfast at nine. Thinking to have a lighter breakfast,as I don't have far to go today, I ask for bacon scrambled eggs and mushrooms. When it arrives I have three rashers of bacon, two eggs worth of scrambled and a pile of mushrooms on two thick slices of toast - heigh ho.
I set off at tennish and after climbing up the hill from Turnchapel I go around the headland to Mountbatten where I get the passenger ferry to the Barbican. With my bike this costs the princely sum of two pounds and is worth every penny as it saves me about a dozen hills.
I take a guided tour of the Plymouth Gin Distillery which is fascinating and I come away with a bottle of 'Navy Strength' gin. It has to pass the test of allowing gun powder to burn after it's been spilt on it's ABV is 57%. I then get a pasty from the oldest pasty shop in all know Christendom and take it to the Dolphin to eat with a pint of Bass.
I go through the modern town centre and have a quick look at the university campus which bears no resemblance to the polytechnic that I attended many years ago. En route to Saltash I pass Pennycomequick where I used to lodge and find that the eponymous pub has been turned into student accommodation and the terrrace of houses in Alma road where I lived has been knocked down and rebuilt.
I follow the A38 to Saltash and as I stop to use the toilets at the Tamar bridge I get a call from Theo our musician who has arrived at the Union pub which is just the other side of the crossing. We have a drink and go up to the guide hut which is our base for the weekend and are fed chilli by our hosts Plymouth MM then repair to the Cecil Arms for drinks and music. Before leaving I buy some tonics and we go back to the hut and play canasta and sample the gin I'd bought earlier.
I've done 12.68 miles today and completed my trip with a total of 419.5 miles on the odometer.
Wow what a day; it's 21:15 and I'm showered changed and sat down in a pub with a pint of Fuller's Discovery, waiting for a well earned steak and Guiness pie! The weather's been glorious but the bike and a nightmare and the route challenging.
I set off from Letchworth at 08:30 a bit later than planned (a second mug of tea seemed like a good idea) but with time in hand so no problem. I got as far as the A505 less than ten minutes from the house and tried to get across the busy road quickly starting to move and changing into a high gear and rising on the pedals for rapid acceleration. The chain snapped and fell off in the middle of the road argh! I have a chain tool with me so after having retrieved the chain from the traffic I managed to bodge it together after about 20 minutes and set off again.
The route to Hatfield was uneventful (I've ridden it before) and I was making good time in the fair weather. I needed to change routes here though and totally missed the change and got as far as Welham before turning round and going back to the town centre where a cycling student gave me excellent direction to find the 'Alban Way' track. By now the chain was making a disturbing noise and halfway to St Albans another sound joined in and I discovered that one of my saddle rails had snapped double argh!
Pie's gone and have a pint of ESB now mmm...
Got to St Albans OK even if the ride was a little odd. Found the right track out of town after poking around for a while then lost it, doubled back and then lost it again. Gave up with tracks and took the main road into Watford making up some time on decent tarmac. A helpful cyclist in the town centre guided me to a decent cycle shop where I bought a saddle and fitted it. Much better ride even if the chain was a bit noisy still. Failing to get directions back to the track from the shop I found the Wetherspoon's in the high street and used their free (well I had a pint natch) WiFi to locate find the next leg towards Rickmandsworth.
A few miles out of Watford the chain fell apart again, imanaged to cobble it together once more and just as I was putting it back on the sprockets remembered that I had some spare links in my kit. It lasted another couple of miles or so at which point I replaced the problem link with my spare and it's been sound since (touch wood).
Spent a good few miles really enjoying riding along the Grand Union Canal tow path. I came right up to a heron standing on the bank waiting for it's tea. I've never been so close to one and was seriously impressed by it's size. It was magnificent to see it fly off skiming along the canal before me.
Shortly after this I needed to take stock of my route again and stopped at a canal side pub called the 'Coy Carp' (ha ha – appeals to my sense of humour anyhow) and had a nice pint of Adnams and recharged my netbook while checking my position. Followed the route along the canal some more and then headed under the M25 and got to Iver Village where I'd lost the route once more. A friendly American cyclist put me back on track again but I soon lost it again and resorted to the main roads as it was getting dark. At least people can direct you and there are lots of signs.
Eventually got to Windsor at about eight having done 70.3 miles (if not in a straight line).
Friday 11th September – Day Two
Another glorious day weather wise and with less hassles than yesterday although not without its moments. I got off to a good start with a fine English breakfast cooked by Dee and Steve my hosts and rode of into Windsor town centre at nine. Topped up the phone and bought a nail brush in Boots (my nails are black after all that playing with the chain!). Then had a look at the castle, not having seen it before I was impressed by the size of it. The town is quite pretty and has a vast flotilla of swans on the Thames.
Snapping out of tourist mode I set of along the side of the Thames at least until I get to Eton Bray and take an impromptu ride around the international rowing pond. I meet a local cyclist who guides me back onto the track and tells me of his 3.5 km ride from Laos through Cambodia and Thailand to Malaysia, which is interesting as I'm going to Thailand in January.
Back along the river the route is now more of a footpath. I pass a jogger and hit a series of dips and ridges over which I manage control the bike until I find the fourth dip contains a tree stump which spills onto the deck. Not to bad though apart from a couple of scratches and a slight bang to my head (glad I always wear my helmet!) . The bike's OK so I set off towards Maidenhead again.
I manage to take another detour being confused where the signs for routes 4 and 61 see to become interchangeable. I get to Maidenhead having done20 miles instead of 7.5; it was pleasant riding but I've got to cut out the detours or I'll never get there! I decide to stop for a coffee and check my location on my netbook. By the time I've finished my espresso I find a flat in my rear tire. I change the tube and find a pin stuck right into it. By the time I've done this it's 12:00 so I stop for a baguette on the way to the station where I will pick up the track again only to find that the tyre has lost pressure again. I'm sure I checked the tube before I set out but heigh ho. Patch the first tube and swap it back in and set out for Reading.
The next section takes me away from the Thames across its flood plain and up over a ridge. It's a long hard climb but the mature beechwood helps keep me cool. The descent is on a nice straight piece of tarmac which allows me to give it full reign. The bike really goes down hill with the weight on and I hit 32 mph. I spot a large bird of prey (buzzard I think) stooping into a field, it doesn't rise so I guess it's caught something.
I now pick up the Kennet and Avon canal which I will follow for the rest of the day. Getting to Reading I stop to find a cycle shop and buy an new inner tube. A friendly local CTC member guides me back to the canal from the town centre.
I'm making good time on the decent tow path and thinking that I should be able to make up some time when I meet Liam and his three mates. They are on the phone to the ambulance service as Liam has damaged his elbow which is twisted into an odd shape and he is white and in obvious pain. They pass me their phone as the ambulance controller wants to speak to an adult and I agree to wait with him until the paramedics arrive. The four of them had been riding their two bikes, the 'passengers' on the handle bars, and collided tipping them all to the ground. Made me feel fortunate and that I'd got away lightly earlier in the day. The crew turned up after about 20 minutes and I set off again.
Got to Newbury at about 19:40 without further incidents having done 51.76 miles in six and a quarter hours the total's now at 122.1 miles.
Saturday 12th September – Day Three
I hope all this doesn't sound like to much whinging 'cos I'm having a brilliant if challenging time; here's some more anyhow.
It's 13:20 and I'm sat in the shop at Crofton Pumping Station with a pot of tea and a fat rascal cake mmm. I've taken a tour of the place and the restored 200 year old beam engines are truly epic.
The day started with another fine breakfast from the Guywood B&B and more sunshine. I hit the road at 09:2o and was soon back on the Kennet and Avon. I spotted some tasty looking trout but guess I don't have time for fishing so I follow the tow path for five and a half miles until the route turn to country lanes. It's good to be on tarmac even my arms were feeling sore from gripping the bars on uneven surfaces. Riding through picture postcard villages and sleepy market towns. Making much better time now and decided I had to have a look at the pumping station as I have to ride past it..
After 40 a minute break I set off again and found I'd gone in a circle and returned to Great Bedwyn. Went back to the canal and found the route again only to find myself coming back into Hungerford (could be another massacre!). Found the station and am going to get a train to Pewsey but in the railway tavern at the moment having a London Pride to sooth my nerves ;-)>
So much for that idea; the train stops at Great Bedwyn and you have to take a bus to Marlborough to get to Pewsey. Having a chat to a local cyclist on the train and eventually connecting to 3 to check the maps I try to find the route again and determine a back up. I find some route markers and spot the one that lead me astray, so make the right turning at this point but soon loose the markers again so engage the back up plan hitting an A road for about five miles and then taking a B road to Pewsey.
Stopped for a pint of Stonehenge 'Pigswill' at Pewsey and got directions along a B road that would take me to Devizes. The ride into the sunset was brilliant passing a ridge to the north (hoping the road didn't go far to the right!) with a round mound and a white horse. I took some photos with my phone so you may be able to see this.
Rolled into Devizes at about 19:30 and called, The Gables, to let them know I was in town and am now in The White Bear having just had a splendid plate of local faggots with onion gravy three veg and mash; that feels so much better especially washed down with the local Wadworth ales. Just need to remember the directions to The Gables now!
The bikes been great the chain is quiet now, no doubt due to the grit it gained from it's trips to the floor, helping it bed into the worn sprockets.
The ride from The White Bear Takes me past the Wadworth brewery and visitor centre; in the future I really must allow more time to take in such facilities. Arrived here just before nine having done 51.72 miles in 5 hours 50 rolling time total distance now ridden is 173.8 miles.
Once I've sent this off I'm going to some detailed route planning for tomorrow and take some screen shots so I don't have to rely on a signal from 3 which caused me some problems today.
Sunday 13th September - Day Four
Perfect day! Rolled into Glastonbury at 17:00 even after an extra ride around the tor. Immediately found The Rifleman where I'm sitting typing this. There's some guys playing wicked blues and I've just had a ham and cheese sandwich and a packet of nuts (not hoping to find much else on Sunday evening, (could do with that roast now cf) which is being washed down with Skinner's 'Cornish Knocker' - lovely.
I started today having the best breakfast yet (got a menu to choose from last night) a bit earlier and was back on the road at 08:40 and the tow path soon after. Back on the canal the tow path is well mettled here and down hill it goes past the longest set of locks I've seen. I wonder what kind of scene it would have made when the canal was busy with trade. I make really good time and get to Bradford-on-Avon in about an hour.
I thought about taking a train for a bit, as I've got a twinge in my right lower leg, but the only connection is to Bath, which doesn't cut the distance much and I soon discover that there's a bus replacement service anyhow. Well I'll just have to take it easy and use some ibuprofen then. So it's back to the canal as far as far as Freshford where I change from route 4 to route 24 which follows a disused railway and then country lanes to Radstock. It's just gone twelve so I try to find a pub that'll do me a sandwich and a pint but they are all offering Sunday roasts. I can't handle a heavy me so I settle for a packet of nuts and a pint topped up with a snack bar from my pack.
From Radstock I leave the Sustrans routes and hit some B roads to Wells. It's a long grind uphill for some time, managing to dodge a couple of combines (although their pace is similar I pull over and let them pass on account of the noise), until the point where I hit the massive drop down to Wells. Shortly after the descent begins I spot the view with Glastonbury Tor in the distance so I stop to take a picture but am not sure how good it will look using my phone. I get back on the bike and hit a massive (for this machine anyhow)35.7 mph and am a bit miffed that there are no speed cameras to trip despite many warnings.
Having got to Wells in good time I had a better look around than my previous visit which was the Chalice MM ring meeting last year when it rained stair rods as soon as we'd finished dancing. The cathedral is utterly splendid and the town centre has some interesting shops e.g. a specialist in antique scientific instruments. The Kings Head proved to be a splendid ale house serving locally brewed beverages and I indulged myself in a couple of pints of Moors 'Merlin' whilst checking my route and recharging my netbook (I must have left on standby as it was warm and flat [not like the beer] when I got it out.
Much refreshed I set off back towards the cathedral where I had seen the last route marker point but lost track in front of the entrance. I popped into the tourist information shop outside the grounds and was put back on route (the sign I'd missed was on a bollard). They also had a route map for 'The West Country Way' which covers a large part of my trip so I bought a copy which has been somewhat useful so far and I expect to be more so tomorrow. My plan to capture the route from the Sustrans website didn't go to well so I ended up make a list of places which helped but the map should see me better.
Had a beautiful ride from Wells to Glastonbury eventually getting to the Dragonfly B&B at about 21:00. I've covered 49.43 miles in five hours twenty minutes riding without going off route much at all, the odometer is now reading 223.2 miles.
Monday 14th September – Day Five
A late start today as breakfast is served at nine. As The Dragonfly B&B is a vegetarian house there's no meat (and no sign of the advertised eggs but I want to get going ASAP so don't enquire). I have a good bowl of muesli, a nice bowl of fresh fruit and yoghurt and a slice of toast and hit the road.
The weather is cooler and cloudy with a light breeze but no sign of rain so perfect riding conditions.
I miss picking up route 3, as I've not sorted out the scale of the map yet, and spend some time riding on the A39 (yuk!) but after about five miles manage to get back to country lanes and pretty villages. Now I've got the scale sorted the maps great and I get to Bridgwater at about 12:00 without any further problems.
I'm starving by now and find a Wetherspoons in town. It's been built in a wonderfully fronted building (my photo doesn't do it justice) called Marycourt and was apparently used by 'hanging' judge Jefferies to try the miscreants of the Monmouth rebellion. I have a much more pleasant experience in the form of a Gourmet Burger (severed with chips, onion rings, bacon, blue cheese and relish) and a pint of Cotliegh Tawny which serves to put right the deficiencies of breakfast.
As the day's getting on and my leg is still niggling a bit I check out the station and am delighted to find that I can get to Tiverton Parkway which will leave me about 8 miles to ride. So I buy a ticket and then have to get my bike over the bridge taking the bags off, carrying them and then going back for the bike. I have to change at Taunton and whilst waiting for the train I take the opportunity to weigh the my bike on the platform scales which it tips at 96 lb! The train is an HST to Plymouth so I must put my bike in the guard van which is at the other end of the platform so I have to leg it for the length of the train.
I get off at Tiverton Parkway in the sunshine and have a pleasant run into Tiverton through country lanes and some bits of canal and only manage one small detour. I get to Angel's Guest House at about 18:00 and as soon as I've showered and change set about finding somewhere to stay tomorrow as it's the only night not booked. I decide to stop at Barnstaple rather than Ilfracombe which will shave a bit of distance off the next two days. After a bit of frustration I find a place with a single room that I book on line.
Despite the train ride I have covered 38.86 miles today and the odometer is now at 261.6 miles.
Tuesday 15th September – Day Six
Although I have a large and sustaining breakfast early today I don't get going until about 09:30 as I spend some time writing up yesterdays musings while I wait for some Lycra that I washed last night to dry out a bit more as the radiators have kicked in this morning. The sky is overcast and it's a bit chillier and more breezy this morning. I set off in good spirits as my leg is feeling better for the short day. I know that today is going to be the hardest of the trip as I'll be riding along the south edge of Exmoor.
Soon after leaving Tiverton I'm riding through classic country park landscape and come upon the neo-gothic Knightshayes Court where stop to take a picture. Then it's up a steep hill through a wood and down into farm land. Hills are becoming more of a feature now and I can feel Exmoor brooding in the distance. Coming into Bampton I am enchanted by the gurgling and babbling of the bright clear water of the river Batherm. Another 7.5 miles sees me at Dulverton on the edge of the moor. It's just gone 12:00 so I investigate the farm shop and come out with a slice of home made pork pie with mango and ginger chutney, an organic pear and a block of bread pudding. The cloud has broken and it's quiet sunny so I find a park bench near the bridge over the Exe and have an excellent lunch even if the ducks plague me with beseeching looks and the odd quack.
I set off again and around the corner is the first of the two 'very step hills' described on the map. They are *not* kidding! I rapidly discovered that it was easier to get off and push the 6.5 stone machine (I end up doing this about half a dozen times today) and get to the top with a couple of rests. The first section of the moor is wood lined and I can hear the wind rushing trough the trees. Then I get out onto the moor proper and although the sun is still shining through broken cloud the wind is howling and tuging at the bike as I ride along.
Halfway across Exmoor I stop at The Sportsman to use the facilities (and of course it would be rude not to have a pint of Exmoor Ale) where I meet a group of 10 cyclists from Ross-on-Wye who riding the Sustrans route. They'd got the train to Plymouth and were riding back in the opposite direction to me. We had a good chat about the route, places to stay and cycling things. Back on the road I there's another 10 miles of the moor with spectacular views of Devon. Then the descent back down to farm land. The main drop is fairly straight and not quite as steep so I have a brilliant run down hitting 40 mph on the way.
I arrive in Barnstaple at about six bone tired but happy. I've covered 53.4 miles in 6 hours 23 minutes riding and have now gone over 300 miles with the odometer at 315.
I find a pub doing quality real ale and food 5 minutes walk from the Yeo Dale Hotel where I'm staying. There's a bunch of sparkies from London (working on a new Argos store) in the pub and they persuade me to try the landlord's chilli sauce. I like a good hot sauce so I give it a go and sample a tiny dab from the end of my finger and it causes intense fire in my mouth. I've never had anything so hot and when I check the ingredients it does not contain any chillies but 'pepper extract' no wonder. I have a home made steak and kidney pudding with a selection of five vegetables and a pile of chips. This is accompanied by a few pints of St Austell's superb HSD and I retire to bed happy and replete.
Wednesday September 16th – Day Seven
The Yeo Dale provide a superb breakfast I get a starter of a pancake with a mandarin segment and marmalade sauce. The full english comes with two rashers of the best hand smoked bacon, a farm house sausage and a slice of black pudding. After typing up yesterdays entry I set off at 09:30 and am soon on the 'Tarka Trail', this is a tarmaced run of disused railway line that runs along the estuary. It's flat straight and runs downhill for miles. I make it to Great Torrington at just gone 11:00. The only incident so far has been dropping the bike and skining my knee while trying to ride through a crush (note to self - walk next time!). This gives the chance to use my field dressings pack (ziplock bag with some plasters and antiseptic wipes) that I've been hauling around.
I stop at Torrington for a cup of tea and then the track goes on through woods and a couple of tunnels. The gradient reverses direction for a while before the 'line' runs out and then it's back to the rolling country lanes. I get to Sheepwash and stop for lunch at the Half Moon Inn where I have venison and wild boar sausages with red wine gravy peas and mash. This is accompanied by a couple of pints of Dartmoor Best Bitter. From here it's a short run to Hatherleigh and I arrive at the Tally Ho! at about 15:00.
Today's seen some of the easiest riding but I've pushed hard and am glad to be able to sort some domestics (wash out some kit for tomorrow's ride and make some phone calls etc.) and have a rest before my last full days riding, tackling the edge of Dartmoor, tomorrow.
I've done 36 miles today in 3 hours 33 minutes and the odometer is now at 351.1 miles. A week seems to have flown past.
Thursday September 17th – Day Eight
As today's breakfast is not until 08:30 I spend some time planning the route using the on-line Sustrans map as the one I have been using has gone off in another direction. When breakfast arrives, for those of you who read Prachett is something that Albert may have served, looking slightly singed with two full rounds of fried bread but tasting absolutely brilliant.
The weather's fine again and the wind is a little lighter. I hit the road at 09:30 again and set off in the wrong direction again argh! I end up doing 8.5 miles before getting to where I started. I decide to take the main road to Okehampton figuring as it will be shorter and have less steep hills (they have some killers around here ). At least I have the satisfaction of riding part of the route the tour of Britain will be using tomorrow and there are men putting out traffic cones and direction signs for the event.
By the time I get to Okehampton I'm feeling a bit down and wondering if I can get another train but I call into the tourist information centre and I'm assured that the next section is level following an old rail line. I buy a Dartmoor cyclist map which is ideal, stop for a double espresso and set in off better spirits.
I make the climb out of town to the Okehampton station visitor centre where the 'Granite Way' starts but unfortunately feel I don't have time to look around. The route is now level as promised, the sun is shining, and I start to make good time. There are spectacular views of Dartmoor to my left and across the rolling (up and down!) hills of Devon to my right. I meet an older lady cyclist and we have a natter and she is very helpful showing me a short-cut that saves a long loop.
Shortly after leaving the granite way I get to Lydford and stop for a pint of St Austell 'Just the Job' and a packet of Quavers which is really great hoppy pint and have a natter with a couple of cyclists there. Then it's of through the hilly lanes past Brent Tor to Tavistock. I stop for another beer in the town in order to check my route. The walls of the toilet in the pub are decorated with bright murals of pub life and I chat to a guy who has been cycle touring in New Zealand and plans to return there and build log cabins. There are two routes out of Tavistock and looking my new map choose the shortest.
After some questioning and dithering I get onto the 'Drakes Trail' and climb out of town and after some tortuous lanes it takes me through some fairly rough woodland paths and then down to a wooden bridge over a small rushing river. The other side of the bridge it dawns on me that when I was looking at my route this morning that one of the branches said 'suitable for mountain bikes only' and I have to haul the bike up steep rocky path out of a gorge. I get to the top and find some ridable track and get to Yelverton where I stop at a shop for an NRG drink feeling the need! I follow a reasonable path for a while and come out on the top of the world with a massive view of Dartmoor to the east. I then find another horrid rocky track down this time. At the bottom the track levels so I get going again but is very roughly mettled and the vibration causes the chain to jump off the rear sprocket. I sort this out fairly rapidly having had some practice and get on my way to find the track improving and seeing a sigh for Plymouth. I'm soon rolling on decent tarmac, at a good speed following a disused railway line into Plymouth which is lifting. Route 27 takes me to within a few miles of Turnchapel my destination for today.
I get to the Clovelly Bay Inn at about 20:00. The welcome at this family run Good Beer Guide recommended pub is fantastic and I down a pint, get a bath and have a splendid platter of slow roasted pork shoulder with four vegetables and roast potatoes. I try a couple more of the ales on offer and finish off with a malt whisky before retiring to bed contented that I've almost completed my trip. I've done 55.64 miles in 6:57 and am now fairly blissed about things.
Friday 18th September - Day Nine
I have a lie in and take breakfast at nine. Thinking to have a lighter breakfast,as I don't have far to go today, I ask for bacon scrambled eggs and mushrooms. When it arrives I have three rashers of bacon, two eggs worth of scrambled and a pile of mushrooms on two thick slices of toast - heigh ho.
I set off at tennish and after climbing up the hill from Turnchapel I go around the headland to Mountbatten where I get the passenger ferry to the Barbican. With my bike this costs the princely sum of two pounds and is worth every penny as it saves me about a dozen hills.
I take a guided tour of the Plymouth Gin Distillery which is fascinating and I come away with a bottle of 'Navy Strength' gin. It has to pass the test of allowing gun powder to burn after it's been spilt on it's ABV is 57%. I then get a pasty from the oldest pasty shop in all know Christendom and take it to the Dolphin to eat with a pint of Bass.
I go through the modern town centre and have a quick look at the university campus which bears no resemblance to the polytechnic that I attended many years ago. En route to Saltash I pass Pennycomequick where I used to lodge and find that the eponymous pub has been turned into student accommodation and the terrrace of houses in Alma road where I lived has been knocked down and rebuilt.
I follow the A38 to Saltash and as I stop to use the toilets at the Tamar bridge I get a call from Theo our musician who has arrived at the Union pub which is just the other side of the crossing. We have a drink and go up to the guide hut which is our base for the weekend and are fed chilli by our hosts Plymouth MM then repair to the Cecil Arms for drinks and music. Before leaving I buy some tonics and we go back to the hut and play canasta and sample the gin I'd bought earlier.
I've done 12.68 miles today and completed my trip with a total of 419.5 miles on the odometer.