Firstly, a big thank you for your generosity and it is hugely appreciated by Cynthia Spencer Hospice. Secondly, I would like to share some of my experience of the walk with you as a personal thank you.
We started off on a very wet Monday morning on our walk from Wallend to Bowness-on-Solway. An average of 17 miles per day or so we thought – true on two of the days but on others it was certainly in excess of 20 miles per day and challenging in terms of terrain and weather but also I must emphasis most enjoyable and an experience I would not have missed for the world. Kevin initially thought that the walk would not be challenging enough but changed his mind very quickly on the morning of day two.
Wellsend to Heddon-on -the-wall – First glimpse of the little bit of the wall which remains on this first leg of the journey and stands just over the railings outside the fort grounds but originally was part of the wall which ran down from the fort to the Tyne. It must be said that this start to the walk whilst not without interest it does lead through the now redundant industrial heart of disappoints. Albeit you pass through the regeneration of Newcastle along the river Tyne which certainly warrant another visit along the river Tyne towards Heddon-on-the-wall which is a steep haul up the countryside from the river and as such it marks the start of the walk proper. Excellent B&B awaited us and nice meal at the local pub about 1 mile away (more walking)!
Heddon-on-the-wall to Chollerford – again you start off thinking this cannot be right because much of the initial stage is owned by Northumberland Highway Department but this is a case in point perseverance really pays off and before long the first evidence of the wall begins to appear and also faint glimpses of the mile castles. There are some excellent bits of the wall and mile castles (turrets) along this part of the walk although sparse and better examples are to be seen later in the walk but very exciting none the less. This proved to be a challenging day’s walk but was rewarded by an excellent B&B, evening meal and great company of other walkers.
Chollerford to Once Brewed/Steel Rigg – this is without a doubt the most thrilling part of the walk encompassing the finest views, the best-preserved fort on the wall and the most complete sections of the wall, the northernmost point of the trail and some great exhaustive walking!
Once Brewed to Walton/Brampton – this walk proved to me (a) my age and that I had some old injuries and (b) that I am not as fit as I once was. Ten hours of walking and Kevin definitely needed to encourage me the last few miles with some medical assistance of Ibro but again most enjoyable and I would not have missed it. On this part of the walk we cross from Northumberland to and the scenery changes from windswept moors and crags to more gentle and rolling countryside. Originally, here the wall was built of turf (because of the lack of limestone) and only rebuilt in stone later. Also, the foundations of the wall have been narrowed so from here-on the wall is narrower. On this stretch on the River Irthling are the remains of a Roman bridge which once would have carried both the Wall and the Military Way plus we get to see a number of turrents, forts and mile castles and a Roman watchtower along the way. In my opinion, whilst a challenging leg of the walk very interesting and one which I would like to do again with time to appreciate all of the above in more detail.
Walland/Brampton to – unfortunately, we have said goodbye to the last remnants f the Wall itself and there is now nothing left but for traces of Vallums and ditches. The depredations of man on this side of the have served to destroy the Wall completely. However, the walk is none the less interesting and has much olde-worlde charm but there is nothing left of Roman Britain outside the Museums.
Carlisle to Bowness-on-Solway – In my opinion, this is indeed a most unusual end to the walk in so much as there are no ruins of Wall or fort and only a very occasional glimpse of a Vallum or ditch, no moors, no crags not even any real gradients. There are however a few cute villages, some great views over the River Eden to and a stroll through an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. I use the term ‘stroll’ loosely. I could not understand why there absolutely no reference to the Wall along this part and reading tells me that yes indeed there are some mysteries surrounding this last stage. The first being why the Wall dodges around so much in all, it changes direction 34 times. The other mystery is why there are so few ruins and in part the answer can be found in the number of public buildings which have used Roman stones in their construction.
Bowness is indeed a lovely, peaceful place to finish to finish the walk but it is eerily quiet and one gets the feeling that people only come here to finish the walk or to visit relatives and friends.
In summary, a great experience, met some really kind people along the way plus most importantly I managed to raise much needed funds for Cynthia Spencer Hospice. As at time of writing I have raised £1634.70 a little short of my £2,000 target.
A huge thank you to those who have already sponsored me. If you would like to sponsor me it is easy either at www.justgiving.com/mary-cpgc or email me mary@ashleytate.co.uk or see Ian behind the bar at Collingtree who has a sponsorship form and who will pass onto me your sponsorship money.
Thank you.
Mary - Lady Captain - CPGC
