Day 15. St Jean de Luz to San Sebastian. 46.24 kms, 2 hrs 30 mins, av. 18.4 km/hr. Ascent 1300m. We finally made it to our destination and as the ETA signs everywhere state "This not Spain, welcome to Basque territory". The last day was most definitely the best as we had a fantastic coast road which climbed over low Pyrenees hills, scattered with Paradors (ancient state owned properties with magnificent views). We climbed up the final hill which was about 7kms winding up and the same down. It reminded me of downhill racing as I managed to clock up 65km/hr. It was a great finish to a special journey. We did this thinking of Louis all the way and he was guiding us safely to the end. It was a trip full of laughter and memories and Louis would have loved it. Justin Whitehead had the vital ingredients to make this a huge success and trip to remember, thank you for asking me JJ. It was his brainchild and love of an adventure that made the whole thing possible. Total of 1,256kms cycled, for Louis.
Day 14. Capbreton to St Jean de Luz. 46 kms, 2 hrs 20 mins, av.19.5 km/hr, ascent 780m. We stayed in one of our worst hotels and were woken throughout the night by lorries and rubbish bin trucks, just to show our new arrivals how we had been suffering en route. The ride to Biarritaz was busy, easy going and uneventful, then you arrive at the Grande Plage and it is fantastic. There are impressive old hotels and a grande parade with rocks and cliffs into the sea. The beach itself was perfect and you could see people step out of their offices to surf or bathe on excellent waves and really clean water, considering you are right in the heart of the city. After lunch we rocketed to our next destination, St Jean de Luz. Another ancient town with a superb beach, lots of great restaurants and shops. Great place to spend the night. Next stop is San Sebastian, our final destination, great excitement mixed with sadness that our travels will soon be over. Loving the fitness, if only I could spend 4hrs a day taking exercise all the time.
Day 13. Mimizan to Capbreton. 83 kms, 3 hrs 35 mins, 23.1 km/hr, ascent 459m. Today was much like yesterday except we were cycling faster I think motivated by meeting our wives at Capbreton. Same forest tracks and coast bathed in sunshine. Nice to have more people around as shops open after the weekend. We had the company of two older French cyclists and enjoyed racing them. The kms pass when you have a distraction. We have almost reached our destination and whilst we have some hills to climb once we get into Spain, the distances are short. We have been doing this to raise money for the hospice where our friend spent his last few days and therefore we felt it only appropriate for his wife Fran to join us at the end. Now JJ and I will have company in the evenings and no more chess will be played. The chess set has been carried each day by the previous game looser and has been a heavy burden on the ride as it's a large wooden set.
Day 12. Arcachon to Mimizan Plage. 83 kms, av 21.5 km/hr, 3 hrs 51 mins, ascent 443m. Hot, sunny and today was windy. The wind managed to be against us whatever direction we seemed to be going. We started the day climbing the Dune of Pyla, which is 119m high and 3kms long. Certainly a remarkable natural feature as it rises high above the pine forest canopy and descends straight down into the ocean. The ride south along the familiar cycle routes was unremarkable and being Sunday everything is closed in France. Even the cafes had no food for us to have at lunch time so we resorted to buying a whole ready roasted chicken with some roast potatoes from a travelling market stall. We ate it using our fingers, followed by melon and strawberries. One of the best lunches yet and good to get a Sunday roast. We got to our hotel on the beach in time for the evening body-surfing and other routines such as washing our kit.
Day 11. Montalivet-les-Bains to Arcachon. 104.5 kms, av 22.5 kms, 4hrs 37mins, ascent 443m. Hot and sunny again, just perfect as we spent the day cycling through pine forests. This route provided some of the most enjoyable riding along excellent cycle paths under the pine canopy. We were often in sight of the Atlantic as we ran along behind the dunes. In particular, between Hourtin Plage and Carcans Plage, where we found a perfectly smooth, car free road all to ourselves. We didn't notice the hills and ended the day catching the ferry from Cap Ferret across the bay to Arcachon town. Cap Ferret has a Californian feel similar to Santa Barbara. Both feeling fit and the end doesn't seem far from here. Knees are all under control and we just need to avoid any mistakes enroute or lapses of concentration.
Day 10. Royan to Montalivet-les-Bains. 37 kms, av 19.6 km/hr, 1 hr 53 mins. Half day cycling only after catching the ferry from Royan across the Gironde. The planned distance and final destination for today was revised after we reassessed the remainder of our trip and the required kms/day, etc. As a result we abandoned our efforts after lunch and went body surfing in the sea. It was too good an opportunity to miss. We have probably made the next few days harder but the beach and surf could not be passed by. It was another blistering day with sunshine and little wind. Our route whilst short was quite slow due to having to twist through the pine forests just behind the sand dunes. Very flat with well marked cycle routes the whole way. This is a sun and beach worshipers paradise, feeling more like California than France. Surfers and beach sailing all the way. There was even a nudist camp but it was well protected from view. Both feeling fit today and tomorrow we will up the pace and race to Arcachon.
Day 9. Chatelaillon-Plage to Royan: 87 Kms, av 21.8mh/hr, 3hrs 59mins, ascent 414m. Brilliant sunshine and hot all day, feels about 30 deg C, cool whilst moving but we drink litres of water. Passed through interesting marsh land similar to the Fenns, with natural channels that were dry whilst the tide was out, feeding oyster beds, we think, which held the water all day. Strange square nets suspended above the beds and not a person in sight. The towns are all deserted as well and if you don't stop for lunch by 2pm you would go without as the cafes all close for the afternoon. The chess set is coming in handy and we seem to be sitting out the mid-day heat playing. We've even started taking it out to dinner, I think our conversation is running out after so many breakfasts, lunches and dinners together. A gentle day as the distance was not too great and quite flat. Tomorrow is another matter as we have to get to Arcachon. It will be approx 125kms and we need to catch 2 ferries which will slow us down. JJ's knees still aren't right and we seem to call into the Pharmacie more than anywhere else. I am currently 100% fit and getting stronger as we go, great feeling but we both have to get to San Sebastian.
Day 8. Day of rest, partially. The motel at La Rochelle was right beside 2 motorways and it was very noisy so we moved. Unfortunately, there was a sailing regatta on in La Rochelle and all accommodation was full. There was only one thing for it and we set off again. La Rochelle to Chatelaillon-Plage, 20kms, av. 20 km/hr, 1 hour, ascent zero. We found a hotel on the beach and settled into some R and R.
Day 7. St Hilaire-de-Riez to La Rochelle. 134 kms, av 23km/hr, 5hrs 47mins, ascent 566m. Hot (30 deg C) and sunny all day. Very flat and open country with straight roads. Considering our route we saw little of the sea and everywhere is deserted. This we find surprising as all the hotels say they're full. We have ended up in La Rochelle in a very cheap motel right beside/in-between 2 motorways. It's a shame, as tomorrow is our day of rest. We will no doubt go exploring on foot or by taxi, not by cycle!
We entertain ourselves shouting abuse at dogs in German, very funny. All started last night in Hotel Frederick at St Hilaire which was like something out of Allo Allo. Both fell off our bikes today in a village called Champaigne, no lasting damage likely, just need to avoid the kerb and each other. Savlon and a new inner tube got us going again. We really are motoring now, no time to sight see or enjoy the towns we pass through. Good endurance test but don't recommend it as a way of appreciating France.
Day 6. Guerande to Sainte Hilaire de Riez. 119kms, av.21.8km/hr, 5hrs 28mins, 513 ascent. Sunny all day. It must be about 26 degrees C, but when you are cycling it doesn't feel hot. We have hugged the coast all day and it's flat, at last. The only problem is there are no downhill stretches, which we use to stand up and relieve the aching behind, you can't win. We have passed lots of holiday camps with the normal crazy golf and themed swimming pools etc., good to pass them by quickly. Starting to get pine trees along the route which smell wonderful in the heat. Fast pace and little rest time. I'm at a stage where I feel I could cycle all day long and it feels great. Poor JJ is now suffering knee problems but I hope the knee support, deepheat, red wine and anti-inflammatory pills will keep him going. Had our first puncture today, nothing to do with the tyre being pricked, just JJ pumping too violently and rupturing the tube by the valve! Spare tyre fixed that and a lesson to learn not to do too much maintenance when all is going well. Biggest day ahead tomorrow to La Rochelle then a day off. It will be welcome and we can put the chess set to use.
Day 5. Paimpont to Guerande. 118 kms, av 20.6km/hr, 5hr 12mins. 1277m ascent. Hot and sunny all day, none of the thunder and lightning forecast. Very wooded and rolling hills, fewer towns and people. As we approach the coast the land started to flatten which is a relief as the hills are tiresome. You spend 20 seconds going down them and 20 minutes climbing up the next. Our routine is settling into 8 am alarm, breakfast and warm-up muscles, 9.30 am depart and stop at 11.30 am for 15 mins rest and drink, another 2 hrs approx cycle then 30 min lunch, finally 2 more hrs approx and that's it. Then wash kit, bath and rest until supper at 7 pm and bed at 10 pm. Very easy and surprising how the days seem to be passing as well as the kms. The first 2 hour ride per day is really very pleasant, the second 2 hours are always starting to get uncomfortable and the last 2 hours are not much fun. Great relief to arrive at the hotel each afternoon at approx 5 pm. Felt good all day today, both JJ and I were taking anti-inflammatory pills and it seems to do the trick with the knees. Drank a lot more water due to the heat.
Day 4. Chateaubourg to Paimpont. 88kms, av. 19km/hr, 4hrs 36mins. 761m ascent. Clear blue sky and warm, so sun cream used for first time. Day ended in a rainstorm but only lasted half hour and we were partly sheltered by the canopy of the Forest of Paimpont. Hardest day yet due to muscle tiredness and pain in left knee. Stocked up on deepheat cream and anti-inflammatory pills from a chemist en-route, hopefully won't develop into anything. More beautiful countryside and farms, lots of time today on quiet B roads bypassing Rennes.
Day 3. Vire to Chateaubourg: 111.8kms, av 20.5kms/hr, 5hrs 26mins. Started very overcast, dark grey clouds threatening heavy rain, but by 11 am we had sunshine and it lasted the whole day. Long hills for the whole distance, slowed our progress and sapped the strength from your legs. Never knew there were so many hills in Normandy! Too much time on equivalent of A roads which enable you to get a move on and cover the distances but you are conscious of the road and effort the whole time, whereas when you go on the lanes you are distracted the by the farms, animals and rural French sights. Everything is going well, route, weather, physical condition (knees sore after about 4 hrs peddling but worse when stop/starting so it's best to keep going) and equipment, fingers crossed it continues. I hope it's going to be like skiing where day 3 is always the most painful and after that your body settles into the exercise and you get stronger. Looking forward to getting to the coast.
Day 2. Ouistreham (north of Caen) to Vire: 94.2 kms, av. 21.6, 4hrs 35mins. Dry, cloudy with sunny intervals. Steady medium pace, long hills with 1071m ascent. Just JJ and I from now on. Great to be cycling in France, roads are quiet, mostly smooth and lots of interesting countryside. Reminds me of school days and cycling around in Belgium. I enjoy looking at all the old properties, especially the small chateaus with their tree lined avenues. Navigation is easy and JJ's small laminated maps attached to the handle bar is a great system. Fell over turning slowly and foot didn't release from peddle, don't think anything was damaged. Settling into routine and building up to some long days ahead. Vire is not a place to rush back to.
Day 1. Andover to Portsmouth ferry terminal: 84.41 kms, av. 23.8 kms/hr, 3hrs 32mins. 581 ascent. Dry, cloudy with sunny intervals. We cycled fast, hard work due to full packs for first time and pace. Joined by Andrew Murray and Julian Harbottle with great send off from Fran’s house. Good entertainment cycling with friends but not a good route via Romsey and Eastleigh, as roads too busy to enjoy talking to each other.
The reason why:
On the 16th September, I will be setting off from Tangley near Andover and hoping to complete an unsupported bicycle ride of approximately 1,000 miles arriving in San Sebastian Northern Spain two weeks later. I will be accompanied by one other friend, Justin Whitehead, and I am aiming to fulfil this challenge and raise money in support of The Countess of Brecknock Hospice.
One of our closest friends, Louis Bernon, lost the battle against cancer in February of this year and spent his last few weeks being cared for at this hospice. I was impressed by the care and support they provided Louis and his family and so would like to raise as much money as possible through this event to enable them to continue their good work.
Monies raised will go directly to the hospice and help them with; the running costs of the day care centre, providing a high ratio of nursing staff to patients, medical cover at weekends and an environment as homely as possible.
If you would like to find out more of what this charity does, please look at the following www.countessofbrecknockhospice.co.uk.
My goal is to raise £6,000 and I would really appreciate any contribution you are able to make, large or small. Donating through JustGiving is simple, fast and totally secure. Your details are safe with JustGiving – they’ll never sell them on or send unwanted emails. Once you donate, they’ll send your money directly to the charity and make sure Gift Aid is reclaimed on every eligible donation by a UK taxpayer. So it’s the most efficient way to donate - I raise more, whilst saving time and cutting costs for the charity.
Many thanks for your support.
Robert MacDonald
