FINAL DAY 16 - WE DID IT! we rolled down the Boulevarde Des Anglaises to be met by Stella at the Cours de Saleya on the Nice seafront with a bottle of champagne and flowers for Sue. We then plunged into the Mediterrean as promised. It was an amazing final climb up over the Alps from Castellane and then downhill all the way into Nice. It has been hot, painful at times, as well as exhilarating. The mountain climbs, the views and the encounters have all been wonderful (the climbs in retrospect only!). The main thing is that we made it together - as a team - and we did it without any real injury save for our aching muscles and painful other parts. Stella and I stayed in Nice on Friday and had a wonderful lunch in the sunshine in the Terrasse Restaurat on the top of the Meridien. Completely exhausted still but elated by this challenge.
DAY 15 Wednesday 10 September : Moustiers-Ste-Marie to Castellane 23.80 miles
Dramatic riding. Route followed 25 km of the Gorge du Verdon taking in the highest point of the St-Malo to Nice route, a height of 1,180 m. Aquamarine waters below. A car went into a squid 100 m behind Phil and Sue as there had been rain and the road was wet. Fortunately no damage to the driver and Castellane safely reached. The penultimate day... Nice tomorrow - first more climbing and more spectacular views.
DAY 14 Tuesday 9 September : Sault to Moustiers-Ste-Marie 73 miles
Exhausting day, vertical climbs. Accommodation booking went wrong, thankfully found last 2 rooms in Moustiers. Legs packing up...
DAY 13 Monday 8 September : Chateuneauf-du-Pape to Sault 43 miles
Started with a ride climbing up through the wild beauty of the Gorge de la Nesque. Lots of professional cyclists use this stunning area for their training. Sault is the old centre of the Provencal lavender trade. Overnight accommodation in a most beautiful farmhouse with glorious views for miles around, quite close to Mt Ventoux.
DAY 12 Sunday 7 September : Vallon-Pont-d'Arc to Chateauneuf-du-Pape 48.62 miles
A 30 km gorge through limestone created by the Ardeche river was an extraordinary experience. The ride interrupted for a while by a race for women cyclists, quite a jamboree waiting for them to pass. A lovely cycle to the banks of the Rhone. A huge rolling river which was crossed twice. The afternoons are up in the 30s which is draining of energy but a shorter day tomorrow. The beauty of this place is out of this world; heading towards the Alps next. Overnight stay 9km east of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, change of plan, stayed in lovely old house and driven to restaurant by kind hosts. Delightful meal on river with a weir, have eaten in open air every evening except for one.
DAY 11 Saturday 6 September : Mende to Vallon-Pont-d'Arc 71.45 miles
Started with a gentle climb following the Lot virtually to its source the route descended for a fantastic 25 km, through the forest-clad slopes of the Parc National des Cevennes. Exhilarating riding but couldn't take eyes off the road for fear of coming off. Cycled on to the shadow of Mont Ventoux at the gateway to the Gorge d'Ardeche. Truly arriving in the south of France. Celebrated with steak from Lidl in our self catering apartment. Oh. And a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape.
DAY 10 Friday 5 September : St-Geniez d'Olt to Mende 39.86 miles
Now in Mende having conquered one of the more fearsome climbs in France - frankly not possible with panniers. It was a combination of pushing bikes and heaving thighs. But reached up to 1022 feet, sorry, METRES on the Col. The body feels rather bashed about - whilst at the same time getting fitter!
DAY 9 Thursday 4 september : Figeac to St-Geniez d'Olt 66.71 miles
Started with a 10 mile climb out of Cele valley, subsequent 5 km downhill ride was absolute joy. The sun is burning down. Countryside is stunning, this area of the Lot seems to be unknown France. It's said here a beast roams and carries off women and children and drinks their blood. 12 hours of cycling today, arriving at our b&b at 7.45 pm, rewarded with a very good meal. Tomorrow we climb for miles and miles into the Massif Central.
DAY 8 Wednesday 3 September : Souillac to Figeac 54 miles
This leg is described as a real cyclist's stage with the first climbs and descents of any length on the journey so far. The first climb of over 1000 metres. Right up out of the Dordogne valley to the spectacular rock hugging village of Rocamadour, where we met the 'Noddy' train. The rivers and bridges are a delight. Now closer to Nice than St Malo!
Thighs growing, alarmingly, by the day. A completely different experience than Land's End to John O'Groats. So, ever on.
DAY 7 Tuesday 2 September : Badefols-D'ans to Souillac 64 miles
Quite a good day. The countryside is absolutely lovely, walnut groves upon walnut groves; the route through steep sided passageways. In the Perigord foie gras region and local foods very good. Clothes washed by the chambres d'hôte host overnight. Wonderful. Supper in a wisteria covered outside terrace by the church where Sue surprised the locals in this ancient place by submitting to the ice bucket challenge...
Tomorrow begins the really hard climbing to reach Figeac. One week down and that feels a great achievement.
DAY 6 Monday 1 September : Rochechouart to Badefols-D'ans 73.95 miles
Now right down in the Dordogne.
The worst day yet. And yesterday was bad enough. Beginning to look intrepid: haggard, tired, dirty, sore with muscles screaming out in pain. Stopped at 7.00 pm so a long hard day with the climbs and heat increasing together after noon. The heat is becoming challenging now. Aware that it's all beautiful but the focus is on getting through the miles. Who thought that Nice was the place to head for?!
DAY 5 Sunday 31 August : Saint-Savin to Rochechouart 64.03 miles
A tough day especially for Phil who was ill throughout the night but still got back on the saddle and went for it. And to cap a bit of a miserable day there was no supper to be found on a Sunday evening.
More people have climbed Everest than have ridden this route. An idle thought to ponder as the push goes on and on and on...
DAY 4 Saturday 30 August : Fontevraud-l'Abbaye to Saint-Savin 56.86 miles
Or it could have been 69 miles as taken up the 'Garmin Path' - a test of faith in GPS technology when the road became tracks around fields of sunflowers and melons. Perseverance thankfully was rewarded and proper roads eventually returned.
The weather is getting warmer, the legs and arms redder.
The French are friendly towards cyclists with much tooting and friendly waves. Poitou Charentes villages and churches are colourfully festooned. Tonight staying with Val a good friend from Bath who understands pressing needs for washed clothes and a reviving beer. Thanks a lot Val.
DAY 3 Friday 29 August : Challones-sur-Loire to Fontevraud-l'Abbaye 46.73 miles Can't believe your generosity. 78% of target reached. Thanks so much.It helps keeping the wheels on turning honestly... And it's only Day 3. Atough day. Sore. And aching muscles. Say no more. And Phil endured a puncture. Bruce's turn next - he hopes not.But the Abbaye at Fontevraud is amazing. Seriously. Check it out. A wonderful slice of history. Very haunting despite the
timeless image.Planning scrambled eggs in cafe before next 72 miles. The owners are English and have a cat which never moves. What a good idea! DAY 2 Thursday 28 August : Vitre to Challones-sur-Loire 64.53 milesVitre lovely citadel town. A good place to stop. Sue's bike had 1cm tear in inner tyre and survived 20 miles with temporary patch until replacement inner tyre found in hypermarket.Challones not picturesque but delightful couple run the chambers d'hôte. And 2 bottles of wine served with supper.
Planning a glass of Saumur in Saumur. Could a theme be developing...
A good part of tomorrow cycling by the Loire. Already a beautiful experience.
DAY 1 Wednesday 27 August : St Malo to Vitre 80 miles
Phil, Sue and Bruce have set off! 0900 from the ferry arriving Vitre by 1800, in spite of wind and rain managed to average 12 mph, and joined by Luke, a Brit cyclist who also needed help with a puncture. So, tired yet relieved to have begun well. Tomorrow the Loire.
WISH US LUCK and THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR WONDERFUL SUPPORT
Bruce Houlder, Sue Cooper and Phil McEvoy will cycle unsupported down France in 16 days starting on 27th August 2014.