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The walk that I'm doing is from St Bees Head on the west coast of Cumbria, across the Lake District, across the Pennines and the North York Moors ending up on the east coast at Robin Hood's Bay just north of Scarborough.  The walk starts on 17th June and I should be finishing, 192 miles later, on 28th June. This started off as a personal challenge but swiftly developed into an opportunity to raise money for Headway (Bath), a charity that supports people with brain injuries. I've chosen Headway because a friend and work colleague is being helped by them. Headway is a national charity but each local branch has to support themselves financially and I know that this is a real struggle at the moment.

I saw this as a chance to help a local charity that doesn't get the publicity of the bigger charities with the knowledge that every donation received will make a big impact. If you are able to, please make a donation however small.  Thank you for your support.

Tim

UPDATE

Travel Day. A very tedious day, except on the Lancaster to Barrow in Furness 2 coacher, when we spotted a strong young lady in a field, in a blue leotard, holding what looked like half a telegraph pole above her head; which was nice. I waved, but she didn't wave back!  At St Bees we had a meal in The Manor, then met Paul and Jeanine in the Oddfellows pub. Jeanine is a driver on the Eurostar, French Canadian and lived in UK for 30 years. Quote of the day from Paul, in response to our Coast to Coast, was that they'd just completed "a Coaster to Coaster at a series of Bavarian breweries".... We managed to pick up some advice from Bear Grylls too (from the paper): Never pick up a snake by its anus.... I agree.

Day 1. St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge. 3 hours of horizontal wind and rain from the start and very wet feet. Note to self: Remember to re-waterproof boots.  Also guide book in danger of falling apart. We met some ladies who'd photocopied the maps and laminated them; a further note to self on that one. An interesting day but feels like the prologue to the main event. No blisters! Perhaps wet feet prevent blisters? The Fox and Hounds we discovered stocked Symonds cider; which was nice. We bemoaned the 6 hour train journey we'd had to an Australian lady but she trumped us with 36 hours. We won't mention that again.

Day 2. Ennerdale to Rosthwaite. I’m already struggling with the Full English and bought possibly the most expensive packed lunch ever; although very thankful for it later. The local school kids were stopping everyone for a survey about the Coast to Coast. I left a card about Headway with the Teacher. A testing morning around Ennerdale water then, after a lot of forest gravel track, we had the climb up Loft Beck. Stopped 5 times on that climb to look at the scenery or it may have been the lungs had given up. At the top it was very windy and we trekked from cairn to cairn to find our way down to the Honister slate mine, where we had two large teas! At our overnighter, Rachel advised us to shower quickly before the rush and then she'd make us tea. All very civilised but there were limited facilities in the room, a shared bathroom and no WiFi. Next a half mile walk to the Scafell Hotel for dinner and to meet up with various C2C-ers we'd met during the day, which was nice.

Day 3. Rosthwaite to Patterdale. The 7 a.m. time for breakfast was more to do with Rachel's problems with her Aga than any need to start early. Don't ask. Best Full English so far. We turned a corner in Easedale and were faced with a farmer chasing a cow. "Send her back lads, will you", he asked. We invoked our full animal husbandry skills and turned the cow around. Later we turned a corner close to Patterdale to be faced with a sheep stampede. Really. Lots of aches tonight as compared to most people that we've met, we actually did 2 days in one. Quote of the day, arriving at the White Lion in Patterdale is "Oh yes, they've got Old Rosie"! (nuclear strength cider). Met up with Anthony & Rachel and a family from Liverpool who all enjoyed (or endured) our cider fuelled conversation!

Day 4. Patterdale to Shap. The White Lion serves huge full breakfasts. I asked for a lite version and got 2 poached eggs, 3 sausages etc. Bonkers. The Patterdale shop is brilliant for walkers - loads of kit and gave me a fiver donation. We were stalked by Alex and Faye all day, who are friends we met on day 1, the tap-tap of their walking sticks keeping us honest. The highest climb on the whole C2C today was not aided by last night’s Old Rosie. The Lakeside walk along Haweswater was very dull. There were clear terrain changes as we left the Lake District and it started turning sunny for the first time. Tonight’s accommodation advised that they didn't do laundry but I could do it in Kirkby Stephen, 20 miles and a day’s walk away. Our pool and darts competition was rudely interrupted by 3 small girls who were running amok and were still there when we left at 9.30. Parents were obviously due a night off.

 

 Day 5. Shap to Kirkby Stephen. Ash said his farewells to me and Alex and Faye. So the first solo day, which turned into cow attack day. One or two of a small herd decided I was an intruder so a rapid detour was required followed by a hard stare! Later, I came round a hill to find farmers penning sheep to shear them, complete with about 20 walkers watching over the wall. Worryingly, blocking the route, were 2 cows jumping around and head-butting each other. I decided to have an unprecedented interest in sheep shearing until I managed to slip past. The same 20 walkers ended up in my B&B. They were part of the Sierra group environmentalists from the USA. We all had tea and scones in the lounge; which was nice. Good news is that this B&B will do my laundry, as I cannot physically keep far enough away from myself!

 

Day 6. Kirkby Stephen to Keld. The wonderfully efficient Carol, at the Jolly Farmers, had my laundry ready by breakfast and everyone on their way in no time. I went for cereal, fruit and toast. At this rate I'll be on a glass of milk by the end of the week. Walking wise, it turned into a tricky day of unclear routes across boggy and waterlogged moors. I only went up to my shins once, which was nice, especially in newly laundered gear. Met Steve in Keld lodge later and he'd been up to his knees. Being past the worst of the ground I decided to finish lunch on a handy picnic bench whereupon a farm dog jumped up and tried to eat my sandwich. Cute, muddy and smelly and so was the dog.... Arriving at Keld Lodge, and bemoaning the boggy terrain, Matt explained that "the bogs were put in to keep the Cumbrian's out". Keld Lodge has Aspalls cider....

 

Day 7. Keld to Reeth. A pleasant amble through the Swaledale valley today with lunch planned for a tea room en-route. It was shut. However I passed a farm with an honesty cool box of snacks and drinks so I didn't starve. I bumped into an Australian couple and their daughter who were interested to hear about the charity as they’d seen the Headway flag on my rucksack. All along the Swale banks were large burrows. Quite frankly the rabbits have been breeding like, well, rabbits.  Reeth is a fine looking village. The centre is a large green area on a hill with pubs and tea rooms dotted around. Saw Faye and Alex and agreed to meet for dinner. The Buck Hotel features Old Rosie, Rosie's Pig and Cheddar Valley ciders...Nice, naturally. It's a short day tomorrow so it could be just as well. 

 

Day 8.  Reeth to Richmond. A one man band was doing everything this morning. He was a bit flustered and grumpy when I requested to pay. I offered to not pay if it would help. Apparently it wouldn't.... A pleasant little walk today and I bumped into Steve about half way and he walked point on cow shooing duties. We met a woman cross country skiing as we approached Richmond. She seemed a forgetful soul as she didn't have any skis. There wasn't any snow or ice either but very impressive nonetheless. I managed to be in my digs at Richmond by 1 p.m. Richmond looks nice but I decided to rest up for a big day tomorrow. Hopefully it'll be breakfast at 7 to get going on those 23 miles or it might be 7.30, the proprietor didn't know so how should I?

 

Day 9.  Richmond to Ingleby Cross. The builder builds an en-suite with a shower and a loo and then puts the basin in the bedroom? Is it me? The room also had a white plastic garden chair. Is this the future? 1 patio set equals four rooms furnished? My room didn't get the parasol. Breakfast was so bad I walked away. Butter patties in a bowl of water? Frozen value sausage? Re-heated baked beans… When I left the kitchen lady advised me to leave the key at the bar. I asked if she wanted me to pay. She said how much? I said you tell me. I could go on for pages.... This was followed by 23 miles plus diversions due to a footpath closure. 80% tarmac today so very hard and ended up with blisters for the first time. Absolutely brilliant honesty box for refreshments on way; had energy drink & choc ice, which was nice! Tonights digs is having a rebuild so we are driven to other accommodation and back to the pub for food etc.

 

Day 10. Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top (Great Broughton). The ferrying between pub and B&B went well and Sue, our surprise landlady, looked after us very well. It was a day of hard climbs and steep descents along the Cleveland Way. On the moors the path was made of rock slabs which had the same impact as the tarmac the day before. I met a few people along the way and chatted about Headway. The Lord Stones Cafe staff were very obliging allowing me to use their landline to contact this evenings B&B to arrange a lift from the end of the days walk. The timings were such that to avoid being early for pick up, I was required to have a scone and tea; nice obviously. Feet just about survived - now for the final 2 day push!

11 – Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale. Paul was a one-man band at breakfast but, as soon as he'd cooked for other guests, he gave me a lift back up to Clay Bank Top. It was a big climb at the start then a surprisingly comfortable high level track across the moors, mostly of small gravel or sand. It became harder after lunch, walking on roads and much harder tracks. Very sunny but a cool breeze. I met only one person all day until I hobbled with painful feet into Glaisdale. So a quick shower and re-application of compeed plasters. Steve, Alex and Faye were in  the pub so a brief re-cap of the day ensued.

12 – Glaisdale to Robin’s Hood Bay. Eager to get away today! Terrorised by rain showers: Jackets on, off , waterproof trousers on off. There was a massive road climb out of Grosmont followed by a treacherous forest phase which all slowed me down. I was so annoyed that I resorted to tea and carrot cake. Later, over the moors, the waterlogged ground returned and I did the comedy sinking shuffle until boot deep in bog; which wasn’t nice. The way markings are poor at this end of the walk. I was stopped in Upper Hawsker and asked where the Methodist Church was; clearly I looked like one of the 38 locals. Then a big trek around headlands to RHB. Met Alex, Faye & Steve for photos, signed the book in the Bay Hotel bar, got the photo next to the “Finish” sign and threw my St Bee’s pebble into the sea!