Saigon to Angkor Wat cycle challenge
Jacqui Thake is raising money for Crisis
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I did it! For those of you who are interested and didn't see my daily Facebook updates, I have copied them below:
Nov 23: Got to Saigon a few hours ago after a very long couple of flights. Kitted out with bikes, had lunch, checked in to hotel, took life in hands to walk around city. Now desperately trying to stay awake for briefing in a couple of hours, then dinner and bed after what will be about 36 hours of sleep deprivation.
Day 1, finished at Cru Long Hotel: Survived the first day... somehow! Not sorry to leave Saigon - what a crazy city. Seemed like the country's five million scooters and mopeds were all there at once. Today was the "easy" day - twice the distance tomorrow - can't imagine the state I'll be in. Fascinating scenery so far. Friendly people all along the route shouting out hello. They all try to high five you and I haven't quite got the technique to stay on the bike at the same time. Haven't mastered the gears either as they go the opposite way to mine back home. Crossed a bridge under reconstruction - very scary. Glad we had some big strong men to carry the bikes as it was like walking a tightrope. Did three ferry crossings in a variety of questionable vessels. This is certainly an adventure. Food so far has been splendid.
Day 2, Can Tho, Minh Hai: And it was a long one. And eventful. Many "issues" – dicky tummies, chains coming off, people coming off, sunburn, prickly heat, one man injured (turned out to be broken foot when he was X-rayed back in the UK this week), two people had to retreat to the van etc. Somehow I survived although my nether regions are saying otherwise... very loudly. Interesting toilet experience - had to walk a plank out to this "hut", then straddle the river via 2 more planks, all open to the public. Very, very long day starting out at 7 and finishing at 6. Tomorrow we are going an additional 8km on today. Right now I can't even contemplate it.
Day 3, Long Xuyen: Oh the agony. I'm hurting in parts of my anatomy I never even knew I had. 90 km in searing heat. There may be no hills but the terrain is really rough and there is a bridge to cross round every corner. Nearly got the gears sussed which is just as well because you come across these bridges very suddenly. Managed to high five two kids today without falling off. Some magical sights. So much to see. Rode for a lot of the day by the water passing banana trees, coconuts, oranges, boats transporting all sorts, hundreds of smiling children. All amazing but I'm so, so sore. There was a race for the last 17 on the straight and I came 5th from last. But not last! Wearing a go-faster Vietnam cycling top which Helen Clackett suggested I should have to look like a proper cyclist. I am so sore, ouch. Was bemused by the condoms among the shampoo and soap at last night's hotel. Even the couples among us would find this kind of cycling and the need for condoms mutually exclusive. 80km tomorrow to look forward to. I AM SO SORE!
Day 4, Angiang: Went to my room last night. Door was unlocked and lights were blazing. I was sure I'd locked up so thought it strange. Walked in and naked Vietnamese man leapt out of bed in surprise. I squealed and accused him of being in my room. He ran over to me and asked to look at my key. I was in the wrong room!
Didn't sleep well last night after my trauma. Bed was as hard as the ground we slept on in Thailand last year. Filled with trepidation at the day ahead...
An inauspicious start. Flat tyre. No wonder I found the last few km hard yesterday afternoon when it must have happened. That's obviously why I didn't beat Helen Wiggins. But incredibly we have completed the Vietnamese leg of our epic journey. Feeling very pleased with myself and even more sore if that could possibly be possible. Once again hot hot hot, bumpy bumpy bumpy and bridge bridge bridges. Glad it's winter back home as I have some interesting tan lines and a lot of gashes. Amazing sights. Interesting water stop where woman was boiling corn on the cob at the side of the road. Delicious. As was the accompanying jack fruit. Have been absolutely ravenous the whole time. Must be consuming 6,000 calories a day. Sadly I'm not burning them all. Trying very hard to remember my room number so that I don't frighten the natives tonight.
On a heavier note I'm still trying to deal with the horrors depicted in the Vietnamese Killing Fields Museum where we ended today's ride.
Day 5, Toul Kork, Phnom Penh: Just arrived in Cambodia by speedboat. Lunch at the Foreign Correspondent Club with French wine overlooking the River Mecon. Bliss! A day off for the nappy rash to heal.
What a day of contrasts. Wonderful boat transfer to Phnom Penh. Terrific lunch. So marvellous to have a day out of the saddle. New bikes tomorrow. Just hope the gears are the same way round and I don't have to start from scratch. A truly harrowing afternoon at the Tuoel Sleng genocide museum where we toured the cells and saw the dreadful instruments of torture. Our guide's father had been killed by the Khmer Rouge so it was particularly poignant. We met two of the prison's seven survivors who make a living by selling their books to the tourists. What incredibly humble men. The prison had previously been a school and we saw how games posts had been used to hang the prisoners upside down for torture. Then it was on to the Killing Fields where we saw the shocking memorial that holds 8,000 skulls dug up from the nearby mass graves. A truly sickening and macabre sight.
Day 6, Kampong Thom: Plastered with a layer each of Sudocream, chamois butter and Vaseline, I face the day...
Disturbed night because I was so hot I turned the air conditioning on. Those who know me well know that I'm never normally that hot. Ghastly hotel. Can't wait to leave. Only two lights working and last night's shower was a cold trickle. Hope this morning's will be better. Also have visitors in the form of lizards.
Started day with a bus transfer to avoid the worst roads. Stopped at a market with most stalls selling fried insects. Was going to try the tarantulas but there were so many flies buzzing around I didn't think it wise seeing as we've hadquite a few tummy upsets already within the group. But I did get to pet a couple of live ones. Cambodia is even hotter than Vietnam so have absolutely melted today. Not sure the three layers of lubricants helped much as I'm as sore as ever. Scenery is very different but the children are just as cute and friendly urging us on with their big grins and their hellos. Great fun overtaking the oxen pulling hay carts. Cycling in a group means there is not always the opportunity to take the pictures you'd like. Certainly missed some good ones today. Amazing picnic lunch all wrapped in banana leaves: rice, chicken satay, pork satay, portion of fish, baked potato, two bananas, apple and a separate bowl of chilli veg. Just had welcome shower and only have a few minutes before dinner. It's rush, rush, rush. Can't believe it's our last day of cycling tomorrow. Will I make it to the end...
Day 7, Borei Angkor Resort & Spa: Woken up early so that I have plenty of time to apply the last day's lubricants.
The old lady did it. She actually cycled four hundred and fifty-FIVE flippin' hot, hard, rough, agonising km from Saigon to Ankor Wat. It should have been 450 but the guide took us the WRONG way. Give the girl a medal (should get onetonight at our farewell meal). Believe me, guys, I have earned every painful penny of my sponsorship. Today's ride was the best ever despite feeling the burn all the way. Spectacular scenery, wide open plains with lush vegetation. Traversed many narrow footpaths of dusty orange clay. You wouldn't believe how filthy we were. An eventful day with three big tumbles. Fortunately nothing serious but some nasty gashes. Not me I might add. But I was the only one not to make it through the "knee deep" stream. Came to a full stop in the middle and went up to my thighs. Lovely squelchy trainers all day. After a hot shower we all made straight for the pool and jacuzzi...