Kilimanjaro Climb
Ian Swann is raising money for Crohn’s & Colitis UK
Story
Until I booked the trip in December, the challenge of climbing the highest mountain in Africa was an idle thought of a middle aged hill walker with no experience of altitude above 2000 metres. As a doctor I have some knowledge of altitude sickness and, ominously, experienced something similar myself last year on the upper floor of a B&B near Glen Affric at a height of about 30 metres - I could not even manage the breakfast let alone the munro I was supposed to climb! There is no way of knowing if I will get this problem again in Africa itself but it usually affects climbers who go up above 3000 metres too quickly. The Shira route which I am following is designed to tackle this issue by climbing high (e.g. 4,800m) and sleeping low (e.g. 3,900m) and I intend to walk as slowly as usual.
The tour company say I will be totally in the hands of experienced guides and porters who are paid to look after you in every way, tea in the tent, bacon and eggs, sandwich lunch, cooked evening meals, boiled water - everything is laid on. The tents and equipment will be carried and maybe if I get tired I too could be carried to the top? - or maybe not!
Anyway, my visa application and immunisations are underway, and my fitness programme “sorted” - I have even joined a gym. A recent trip up the Campsies was most helpful. En route I met an elderly friend who reassured me that a famous surgeon had managed Kilimanjaro at the age of 80. The descent from the Campsies in darkness was the ideal opportunity to try out my head torch. Aiming for the lights of the tennis club, I got bogged down in mud and spent a good hour circumnavigating the woods – this was good practice but possibly not as difficult than the final push up Kibo (as the highest volcanic crater in Africa is called) – apparently you set off at midnight from the camp (4,600m) arriving at the crater edge (5735m) at dawn. The advice is to ignore the unconscious and vomiting (assuming I am not among them) and continue round the crater up to the Uhuru summit (5896m), then downhill about 3 munros descent to collapse in the next camp.
So, with all this to look forward to, I also have the opportunity to raise money for charity. It is not easy to decide which ones as there are so many deserving charities, but I have decided on NACC (the National Association for Colitis and Crohns Disease) and Headway which supports relatives in the rehabilitation of head injured patients. (For Headway donations please send these directly to me at 7,Campsie Road, Strathblane, Glasgow G63 9AB with cheques made out to "Headway Glasgow" as this web site can only accept donations to NACC). The offer of any donation will be very welcome.
I can now update you on the outcome of my Kilimanjaro treck. Thanks for all your support without which I would not even have reached the 5000m which I did.
The following notes from my diary gives the details.
Abbreviated version of Kili Treck
Julie gave me lift to airport, arriving to catch 5.55am KLM flight to . Bags weighed in OK - main bag (Neil`s North Face 90l Duffel) 16kg + my on board bag (32l freeflow Berghaus).
Smooth flight to but after boarding the onward flight to Kili on time held on runway for 5 hours while spare part found! (this meant 14 hrs on this plane)
Arrived Kili airport 4am Friday (instead of thurs) – Met by taxi
driver and taken direct (fast, on both sides of single track road, 40 mins) to Ilboru Safari Lodge , Arusha.
Friday 16th - awoke at by sound of screeching birds ? parrots} Ate good buffet breakfast – eggs, bacon, fruit, tea etc and returned to unpack and for more sleep.
Kevin from (flatmate) arrived at about 12md. A strong marathon runner, mid 30`s with good sense of humour and appetite. English Lecturer who hoped to take a library of books up Kili !
We had a briefing meeting in the garden at for group 1 (11 of us)
Evening meal and 1st 125mg Diamox dose.
Early to bed for early start next day mosquito nets just in case.. We discussed Jung`s philosophy (briefly) before I went to sleep!
Group 1
Kevin had hoped to take a library of books up Kili ! but compromised with 3 books. Kevin had been staying with relatives in and was going on safari to Nguru crater after the Kili treck.
Michael from . Also ran marathons and was well prepared having failed to complete the Rongai route last year(D&V)
Richard Fellow Munro enthusiast from south coast of . Very fit but also returning after D&V on Rongai route last year.
Sally Maths teacher from . The 3rd person to have suffered on Rongai route last year. Slim and deceptively strong
Stephanie Canadian Law student final year. Likes to keep active , mentally and physically, good talker, keen photographer, eats a lot but stays slim.
Nicole Ex sprinter from . Tall, strong but recently has gained too much weight. Great personality, very supportive.
Lennie Solid, fit, strong, supportive. Of Italian descent but works in .
Bob Architypal ex RAF officer. Large beer belly but strong as an ox. Good raconteur. Works with Lennie in Pharmaceutical company (immodium is one of his products). His budget for clothes and equipment is miniscule, much adapted from ex RAF issue. Prefers shorts.
Adele Young, strong, positive, English, appetite rivalling Kevins. Prefers small steps for energy preservation.
Melody In Canadian Navy, Engineering degree but hopes to apply for entry to medical school this year. Strong walker, climbs and plays rugby.
Saturday 17th FebSet off in old landrover on road towards Moshi then turned north up dusty and bumpy road to Londorossi National Park Gate. Need passport no. etc. Face masks came in useful. Then on up to park at 2800m.
Now on foot, together with group 2 steady walk up track onto the Shira Plateau. Long day but fairly easy walking to Shira 1 (3550m)
Steph has already had vomiting and diarrhoea but it was to resolve within 24 hours – given immodium.
Dinner in canteen followed by a pep talk/ briefing and Swahili songs
Early to bed (dark by ) Asleep by
Sunday 18 Feb 6.30am Tea in bed . Up breakfast . Start walking
Walk across the plateau and , leaving bags at col, up to Shira Cathedral (3750m) managed this OK – fine weather.
Monday 19 Feb Steady climb up towards Lent Hills. Not eating well but drinking fine. Tired and tending to feel the pace a little. Camped near Moir Hut (now derelict). Managed acclimatisation walk to summit of Lent Hills (4,700 m ) OK but due to diarrhoea arrived back last. Started taking immodium tablets.
Tuesday 20 Feb Diarrhoea and loss of appetite continue. Manage walk to Arrow Glacier camp and acclimatisation walk up towards Western Breach but due to landslide last year (porters killed) Siggy stops us at 4,700m At this time I fancied my chances of reaching the top because I was not unduly weak or breathless. More immodium (and low dose Diamox)
The briefing by Siggy (Lead Guide) at mealtimes was very professional helpful, concise with humour and singing from our 4 guides.
Siggy, 56 has been the senior guide for 20years and is soon hoping to retire and focus on a small holding growing coffee.
Guides Charles, Mosi, Daniel, Justin and Siggy would be going all the way to the top.
Justin is a body building, happy, lively singer.
Mosi and Daniel a little quieter but all have been up many times.
Charles I was to get to know Charles very well because he looked after me on the way down and was in charge of the medications. He is
recognised by his missing upper incisor tooth and distinctive smile. Intelligent, experienced, knowledgable about African politics, good English speaker and a bit of a wheeler/dealer. Trained as a tailor (made the clothes he was wearing - very smart green shirt and trousers). Claims that his great grandmother is 130 yrs old and still does the dishes! Plans to leave the guide job as it is very hard (He gets headaches , probably cervicogenic) and has had numbness of his toe tips for a few months (? Cold injury) tips are whiteish. Hopes to start a business selling second hand outdoor equipment (collected from hotels).
Wednesday 21 Feb
After a night with frequent loo trips I was weak and tired. Have now added metronidazole to the immodium treatment but still not hungry and not drinking enough.
Downhill mainly to the Great Barranco valley and hard climb up the Barranco “wall”. I am now lagging behind. But manage to make it to the Karanga camp site , the last camp near a water supply.
Thursday 22 Feb
In the morning Charles gave me Tinazole and more immodium.
with second dose after walk to Barafu.(4600m). Barafu camp is very busy, smelly and on a rocky slope. Here ate little but often and visited the loo often (situated about 50m from our tent up a hill over rough ground, - dangerous at night esp. if in a hurry - which I usually was).
At midnight, Charles took my pack and I followed the group up for about 30 minutes but soon loo stops had me lagging behind. Finally at about 5000m it was impossible to proceed as vomiting added to diarrhoea and dehydration had taken their toll.
Friday 23 Feb
Back down slowly, past an old stretcher, to find my tent at – had to displace a porter and grab a few hours sleep. Then cup of tea, quick wash, help by Charles to pack and at began to head down the trail to Millenium Gate and Mweka.
Soon felt better at lower altitude although loo stops continued.
Rescue land rover met us after Mweka Gate and then a taxi back to Impala hotel, shower and a bed.
Sat 24 Feb
Suddenly felt hungry, grabbed food when I could.
but over next 24 hrs still had loose motions.
Celebration dinner in evening at Ilboru Lodge - all of our group had reached the summit (Even Nicole with a lttle help from her friends)
There had been ice on the summit and it sounds like hobnails would have been helpful. Certainly those without sticks were falling frequently.
After reaching the top, Kevin had met Nicole, struggling up, and together with Mel went back up to the top with her. Kevin was back at Barafu not long after I left.
Sunday 25 Feb Saw Kevin off for his Safari at after breakfast
Spent lazy day by pool before taxi to Kili airport with Melody at (40 dollars shared)
Return journey on time but tiring
Monday 26 Feb
Met Julie at airport 10.45am Safely home!
Now for some good food, rest and a convenient loo!
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Many thanks for your support.